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CLIFDEN
SEA SPORTS CENTRE -"ROUND IRELAND CHALLENGE"
Main Sponsors; YAMAHA and STATOIL
Boat "Enterprise 2 " Driver
"Damian Ward" 10th July 1999
THE LEAD-UP:
All the week before, as I watched the weather develop, as it was predicted,
into a possible weather window for the "Round Ireland", I felt a little
alone. It was just me and my boat spending a lot of time together, getting
ourselves ready. I made the final checks on the gear, all seemed to be
well. I was still unsure as to whether I was doing a solo run or bringing
my crew. I wasn't telling anyone about the possibility for this weekend
because all last Summer and this Summer, every week or so, I would see
a possibility of a window in the weather but by the time it arrived it
would have changed, so everyone seemed to be tired of me talking about
it.
When the
day came (Friday 9/7/99), I took the boat for a final test drive fully
loaded with fuel, and to see what condition the seas were in. Since the
planned depart time was much later that night (2am), I still had time
to decide - to go, or not to go. The seas hadn't settled enough yet but
they would probably calm down more over the evening.
My plan now was to have a good meal and go to bed for a few hours. I had
my dinner and as I sat outside my house, looking at the weather and still
wondering will I or won't I, a friend offered to drive me up the sky road
(a great local view point), and yes the seas seemed to have settled down
alot more. The decision was made and I was committed to it. When I got
home I rang the rest of the team and told them I was going to bed for
three hours, getting up at midnight, and then to meet me at my house to
go over the plans one last time and notify the IMES (Irish Marine Emergency
Services) and the VHF coast stations. Then meet at the beach at 1am, launch
and my solo depart at 2am.
The planned three hours of sleep turned out to be three hours of lying
in bed awake, I couldn't sleep but, as I had made my days leading up to
this as stress free as possible, I felt ready anyway. It was about 1.30am
by the time we got to the beach and then a 2.15am launch and depart at
2.23am (Saturday 10/7/99).
THE RUN:
I had my GPS (Global Positioning System) "Route Activated" and off I set
at high speed in the dark. Then, as I checked my GPS for direction, I
realised it was still on the "Inverted Route" I had used to get back from
my "Sea Trials" earlier in the day, ooops! Only a few hundred yards and
I had my first situation to deal with, but at least it was only a minor
one. Once I had left Clifden Bay and got out into the open I encountered
another problem, I seemed to have trouble keeping a straight line. Every
time I looked at the GPS I had wandered off line, and the harder I tried,
the harder it seemed to get. I couldn't figure it out, this was by no
means my first night navigation. Then, whatever direction the sea-swell
was comming from (which I was unsure of anymore), the boat felt like it
was listing over to port-side and it just seemed to keep on listing. Once
again, I didn't know what to think, I first thought maybe by some unlucky
chance in a million I had ripped all the tubes on the port-side and was
sinking, but I visually checked them and then physically checked them
- pressure was good - that wasn't the problem. I stopped the boat, checked
everything again, all was well. I checked my bearings on land (as much
as I could in the dark) and I was where I should have been, and GPS agreed.
My guess is that, due to the waves, the swell of the Atlantic, the constant
motion of the boat and driving virtually blind in the dark, I got totally
disorientated for a short while and that was making my mind play tricks
with me. I settled myself down, got over it, and on with the show again.
It was about 2.45am and motoring well and even only 25 minutes after starting,
my thoughts were only "when is it going to get bright", just another one
and a half hours should see the signs of dawn.
Then I could push everything a little harder, because when you can see
the swell and the waves you can anticipate their effect on the ride of
the boat and counter-act against it. 2.56am I checked in with Clifden
Radio (VHF Coast Station) and told them I would be checking in with every
hour on the hour or at my nearest Wpt (Waypoint) to it. I had already
faxed all the Coast Stations a list of my wpts and my planned route, so
they would know where I should be at any time and keep track of my voyage.
3.52am Apart from startling a few flocks of sea birds, all is well as
I check in with Belmullet Radio passing Wpt No. 7 (Achill Island). Getting
bright now as dawn approaches, just before I tackled the longest leg of
the journey. I checked in with Belmullet Radio at 4.26am passing Wpt No.8
(Erris Head, Belmullet) starting the 100 mile passage offshore in the
big swell from Erris Head (N/W Mayo) to Tory Island (N/W Donegal). I was
now able to keep my speeds above the minimum neccessary for the record,
40mph, and increasing all the time as the fuel load becomes less. Before
I left the swell of the Atlantic it took it's toll and the slamming of
the waves was too much for one of my VHF aerials. This was the aerial
for the internal communication system built into my helmut. From now on,
I had to listen carefully to the dash-mounted VHF, no problem when going
slow but flat out the "Great Roar" of the Yamaha 250 Vx outboard and the
severe wind noise at that speed made it difficult to hear while still
wearing my helmut to protect my head and face from the elements. Still
- "on with the show". Between Wpt 8 and 9 over the 100 miles I made comms.
check with Belmullet and Glen Head Radios at 6am and 7am and eventually
reaching Wpt 10 "Tor Rocks" (off Malin Head) at about 8.15am and comms
check with Malin Head Radio there.
The seas settled very nicely from here and the wind was nice and calm,
as forecast, so I was able to maintain an average speed of 50mph plus
and still increasing as the fuel load still becomes less. Less fuel...less
weight...more speed!!!
Visibility was not good alot of the way, very misty with some bad showers
every now and then, but I still managed to check in with Belfast Coast
Guard just after 9am, as I rounded Wpt 11, Rathlin Island. Down the North
East coast was uneventfull and, as they say, "Plain Sailing". Passing
Wpt 12 (off Larne) at about 10am, Wpt 13, 14 + 15 (all off Strangford
Lough) by 11am, and all points checked in with Belfast Coast Guard.
The next long offshore leg, to Wpt 16 (Strangford Lough to Lambay Island),
almost 70 miles went well also. 12 midday, now in range of Dublin Radio,
I checked in way off Drogheda. Then Rounding Lambay Island with no problems,
staright in to Malahide Marina, Wpts 17 + 18 were the channell marks I
followed into Malahide, for my refuel stop at 12.45pm. In the "Practise
Run" refuelling was timed at 20 minutes, but this time it was 45 minutes
before I was on my way again. I had reached the halfway mark in under
ten and a half hours, I'm happy with that because on my last attempt (Sept
'98) it took twelve hours.
Depart Malahide Marina at 1.30pm, and on with the second half of the voyage.
After refuelling both petrol and oil, I headed out to sea again. The first
wave I crossed leaving the marina put a splash towards me. I thought nothing
of it at first, even though I didn't have my helmet on yet. I soon realised
it was'nt water, it was petrol from the port-side tank, and it had got
into my eyes, and it stung like hell. I stopped the boat, rinsed my face
with sea water first, then reached into my personal kit bag for one of
my bottles of drinking water and poured it over my eyes, while trying
to look up to the skies. My vision didn't recover for many hours, but
it was good enough to go on. It seems during refuelling someone forgot
to replace one of the fuel caps, but ultimately it was my own fault for
not checking the boat thoroughly before going to sea again, like all good
skippers do. Soon after leaving Dublin and getting over that incidence,
I glanced around to check the boat and gear, give it the once over, to
realise my second VHF aerial had broken. I called IMES-Dublin Radio on
my mobile phone to inform them of the situation and that I now would only
be able to check in wherever the mobile signal permitted. I also told
them that I still had a handheld VHF but, as the batteries don't last
forever, I was saving it for emergencies. On and on I went, passing Wpt
19 (Howth), 20 (off Dublin Bay), 21 (off Greystones), 22 (off Wicklow
Head), 23 (off Cahore Point), to Wpt 24 "Tuskar Rock" (off Rosslare),
another 112 miles clocked without incidence. I checked in, by mobile phone,
to Valentia Radio when I reached Wpt 25 "Connigbeg Light" (off Saltee
Islands) at 4pm approximatley. I reached Wpt 26 "The Old Head of Kinsale"
at 6pm approx. checked in again, by phone, with Valentia Radio. I told
them that, without VHF comms, I wouldn't be checking in again untill I
was at Wpt 33 "The Blaskets" (off Dingle) and I should be there in two
and a half hours to three hours.
At the rate I had covered ground, or water, around the rest of the country
this seemed very possible. I made it to Wpt27 "The Stags" (off Toe Head)
fairly handy and on schedule, even though the wind had picked up to a
Force 5. As I rounded Wpt 28 "The Fastnet" (off Cape Clear) and headed
for Wpt 29 "The Mizen" (Mizen Head) the sea swell had built up, and both
the boat and I were taking a hammering. I kept on going and as I passed
Wpt 30 "The Bull" (off Dursey Head), and turned more directly into the
wind and swell, both boat and I were taking a more severe hammering. At
this stage my speed had been reduced to 15-20mph max due to the weather
conditions and at this rate it would still take me another two hours to
get to Wpt 33 "The Blaskets", that would make it about 10.30pm and getting
dark. Halfway between Wpt 30 and 31 "The Skelligs", Valentia Radio called
me on the VHF. I responded by VHF even though, by transmitting on a VHF
without an aerial, I ran a risk of blowing the entire unit altogether.
It turns out it was my Dad (Jackie Ward) making a "Link Call" from home
to check on my location at that time, 8.30pm, as I was to check in, off
Dingle, between 8pm and 9pm. Dad was surprised to hear how much time I
was loosing, compared to the times
I had clocked over the rest of the country. I told him I had just made
a "Safety Decision".
THE DECISION Considering the Force 5 wind and the big swells, which I
would be heading straight into for the rest of the journey, and darkness
falling soon, just as I would be starting the second longest leg (94 miles),
the furthest offshore and not just offshore but off into the Atlantic
- I decided to stop somewhere nearby, let the night hours pass and continue
the next day when I can see the waves and swells, and be able to drive
the boat, in these conditions, to it's safest and best potential. By doing
so, "The Record" was gone, but I saw no point in continueing through the
night in these conditions regardless of how close I was to breaking the
record.
THE RECORDS If conditions stayed good as they were when I started in the
Atlantic, or stayed better as they were the rest of the day, my time would
potentially have been 21 and a half hours, enough to beat the all time
"Fastest Circum-Navigation" record of 21 hours 54 minutes set by "The
Rescue Services Team", August'98. Or even considering the speeds I was
now reduced to, struggling to keep an average of 20mph, my time would
potentialy have been 26 hours, enough to beat the last "Solo Circum-Navigation"
record of 31 hours 50 minutes set by Mike Carroll, May '95. But because
I made a "Safety Decision", because I decide to pull in for the night
hours, rather than push a bad situation through the night, I lost my shot
at the record. My choice, I accept that. I may get another chance another
day. All these thoughts were going through my head , at great speeds,
over and over again, but I decided to go ashore.
THE HELP AFTER THE DECISION The next problem I had was the fact that I
was unfamiliar with that corner of the country. I didn't know the coastline,
the townlands or anyone living there to help me when I got ashore. I got
out my sea chart, that I had onboard, and I still couldn't decide where
was the best place to pull in. I got Dad on the phone, and he suggested
"Ballinskelligs Bay" for shelter. He also said he would do some checking
on his end and call me back with any information he could get on the area.
I altered my course and navigated my way to "Ballinskelligs Bay" according
to my sea charts and GPS - no problem. Dad (DLA of Clifden RNLI) rang
back, and said his contact at Valentia RNLI, the late Paddy Gallagher,
would be ringing me soon with some advise....Good! Paddy rang and told
me to pull in at "Ballinskelligs Pier", and a friend of his, Michael Barry,
would meet me there to sort out moorings and accommodation....Better!!
When I got to the pier I was met by Michael and another gentleman, Brendan
Walsh. Michael offered me a mooring for the night, and a tender ashore,
but I told him I was Happy enough tied up at the pier, and thanks anyway.
When I got out of the boat, happy she was secured for the night, we had
a little chat at the top of the pier, and here's something a little ironic.
Just around the corner of the pier from my boat was the "Lencraft Challenger",
the last "Solo Circum-Navigation" boat - driven then by Mike Carroll,
but owned now by one of the locals there.....yes...as I said....Ironic!!!
Next Brendan drove me to a B+B, "Island View Farm House", for the night,
dropping off Michael at his house on the way. Brendan insisted on bringing
me to the local pub, for a pint after my long journey, and an oppertunity
for me to tell the tales. I had a quick shower and change, then off to
the local for a sociable drink. Drinks were had (I wasn't allowed pay
for any) and stories were swapped.
The next morning, Paying for the B+B was a problem too, they wouldn't
accept money from me, the proprietors Jackie and Mary Sugrue were insistant
on me accepting their hospitality, I did and many thanks to them. Then
when I mentioned that I would need a little extra fuel (since I had now
put extra miles on my journey), Brendan organised fuel cans and brought
me to the petrol station "Nicholas Brown's Farm Store" and Nicholas offered
to sponsor half my fuel expenses. I must take this opportunity to thank
the village of "Ballinskelligs" for their hospitality, above and beyond
the call of duty, and in particular (in order as I met them), Brendan
Walsh, Michael Barry, Jackie and Mary Sugrue, Nicholas Browne and thanks
to Paddy Gallagher of Valentia RNLI for pointing me the right way. I've
definitly put "Ballinskelligs" on my list of "places to go", to visit
the great people of the community.
THE RUN CONTINUED 3.30pm the next day (Sunday 11/7/99), after alot of
waiting and hoping the wind and seas would calm down, I departed Ballinskelligs.
I checked in with Dublin IMES and Valentia Radio to continue my TR (Track
Route). 4pm I'm at Wpy 31 "The Skelligs", struggling once again with the
same Force 5 and big seas, and just about maintaining an average of 20mph.
6pm I'm at Wpt 33 "The Blaskets" (off Dingle), at this point I had almost
decided to call it quits for another day because the conditions were still
too severe. I thought it might be nice to stop for the night at "Tralee
Sailing Club" in Fenit, where the big "IORA" yacht race was just finishing
up, and I have some good, fellow sailor, friends there. But with the forecast
on the VHF for the wind to ease up later, I decided to continue and hope
for the best. Well I continued but the best didn't happen. The conditions
stayed bad all the way, still struggling to maintain an average of 20mph.
All I wanted to do now was complete the "Circum Navigation". 8pm Half
way between Dingle and Slyne Head, off Loop Head, I checked in with Shannon
Radio.
Many hours after loosing sight of land and many more before I would see
it again, I began to question my sanity. There I was in the middle of
the Atlantic, battling the elements, alone, 2 VHFs working on very reduced
power (due to no aerials left), no mobile phone signal, and now it looked
like I wouldn't get home before dark. But on I battled, determined more
than ever to keep pushing as hard as I could, to get to Wpt 34 "Slyne
Head" before dark.
Then, just when it looked like I might make it past Slyne Head and the
last 11 miles all the way home before dark, I heard a banging noise that
I hadn't heard before. After inspecting the boat visually again, I tracked
down the noise, things were getting worse. The "A-Frame", at the back
of the boat (the back bone of all Nav. gear), built of 2" stainless steel
tube, had just snapped the two uprights on the port side (up high on the
frame) and one of the uprights on the starboard side was cracked at the
foot-plate and about to break there too. If this went, all Nav. gear was
gone, including nav lights and what was left of the aerials (not to mention
the cost of replacing everything). So I limped the boat the last 13 miles
to Slyne Head at a max speed of 15mph, hoping it would all hold together
long enough, and luckily enough it did. Once I rounded Slyne Head the
water was flat (well relatively) in the shelter of our local islands.
I brought my speed up to 30mph. Even though I probably could have reached
60mph, I just didn't see the point for the last 11 miles. I contacted
Clifden Radio, now that I was back in (reduced) VHF range, and I asked
them to inform Clifden Boat Club and my parents that I was on my way home.
They called me back and said there was no reply from The Boat Club, but
my parents were on their way to the beach from their house. It seems no
one expected me home yet, because the last coms I had with them was when
I was planning on stopping at Dingle, so everyone, EVERYONE, had gone
home. Such an anti-climax to my voyage, such a dissapointment, but all
my own fault. When I got to the beach, all I wanted to do was drive the
boat straight onto it's trailer and end it all.
There was a spring tide and it was all the way out, this meant there was
no water at the slip to recover the boat. Leave the boat on a mooring...yes
I could do that but I have no tender and don't feel like swimming. But
the same spring tide that prevented me from recovering the boat to trailer
meant one of my moorings was only in three foot of water. So I tied her
up there, said goodnight and walked ashore. Then my Dad and Brother (Barry)
both arrived down to the beach to welcome me home...it was very nice to
see them both again. Well...journey over for now!!! All I have to do is
recover the boat and inspect any damage properly. This I did the next
afternoon on the high tide. We recovered the boat without incidence and
on further inspection everything else seemed OK.
THE TIMES From when I started the voyage at 2.23am Saturday morning, to
when I returned 11.15pm Sunday night took 44hrs52mins. No record there.
But take away my stopped time of 19hrs and you get an Actual Time of 25hrs52mins.
Now I'm happy with that for a "Solo Circum-Navigation" of Ireland, especially
considering the weather conditions I had to deal with all along the west
coast.
THE AFTER-EFFECTS
The very next morning (Monday), the sun was shining, this means the "Water
Sports" business was very good...so...no rest for the wicked..and off
to work I go for the day...no problem, just feeling a little tired, as
would be expected. On the way to work, while driving my jeep, I noticed
I was getting repeated nerve-pains from my right wrist down through my
arm. This was unsettling but passed, eventually, after about a week. It
was, apparently, a side effect from hanging off the steering wheel of
the boat for so long. Tuesday back to work again, but only after a night
of sweating in bed and having strange repeated dreams about the two-stroke
oil pumping system we developed for the run. Strange...yes, but not a
concern. All day at work my body seemed to be developing more and more
aches and pains. Wednesday, after another night of sweating and the sheets
sticking to me, I went to my Doctor.
The Doc. told me I had a fever (103 degrees) and due to total exhaustion
and over working of all my muscles, my body had become prone to any bugs
and they were having a field day with my system. He confined me to bed
rest for 48 hours and gave me a heavy dose of antibiotics and pain-killers.
Friday morning, after still sweating all night, I felt like I was back
up to about 90% of normal, but by afternoon it seemed more like 60%. I
still had to take it easy for the weekend, but it did give me a chance
to go over all the events and write this story. Now on the 8th day, I've
just had a productive day at work and I feel fine.....finally!!!
WHAT NEXT ??? Well I have to get the boat and gear back to scratch, then
myself (now fully recovered) and the YAMAHA 250 Vx are ready to challenge
the "Waterford to Swansea" speed record comming soon, and up for grabs
there is the "John Kavanagh Challenge Trophy" MY COMPLIMENTS The YAMAHA
250 Vx is the only thing that just wants to keep on roaring through anything,
and everything......a great piece of machinery.....My compliments to YAMAHA.....and
STATOIL for supplying the petrol to keep it going.
THE TEAM Team "Clifden Sea Sports", that
night, consisted of Carmel Conneely, Jackie
Ward, Bernie Ward, Barry
Ward, Valerie Marcus and myself.
SPONSORS
None of this would be possible without the help of my sponsors and advertisers.
MAIN SPONSORS; Yamaha
and Statoil. ADVERTISERS; Killen Marine,
Jackie and Bernie Ward, GMT Ireland, Sweeney oil, Brian Lynch Solicitors.
OTHER
SPONSERS; Lencraft, A1 Signs, Parnell
Trailers, Cyberink, AIB Clifden, Alcock and Brown Hotel, River Deep Mountain
High Limerick. Connemara Golf Club, Mrs. Col. Morris, Clifden Supply Centre,
Eamonn McLoughlin, Derryclare Restaurant, Mitsubishi Electric, Beaumark
Ltd. Clifden Boat Club, Bank of Ireland, Matt O'Sullivan, Brian Hehir,
Humpty's Bar, Celtic Shop, Noreen Casey, Acton Construction, Abbeyglen
Hotel, EDI Ltd. An Triantan, Donal O'Scannaill, Pete Vine, Moran's Pharmacy,
Mannion's Bar, Costello and Gibbons Electrical, O'Sullivan Hannesbury
& Kenny, Peter Murphy Electrical, Michael Keane Electrical, Quay House,
Service Call.
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